How to Make All-Natural Goat Milk Cold Process Soap (Technique Video #24)

How to Make All-Natural Goat Milk Cold Process Soap (Technique Video #24)


Hi, this is Teri with Tree Marie Soapworks. Today I’m going to be showing you
how to make this bar. It’s a goat milk
soap and it’s all-natural. For this bar I
did not add any colorant or any
fragrance. Stay tuned to the end of the
video and I’m going to give you a few
tips and also tell you about the white
spots that form in goat milk soap often
and I want to explain that a little bit.
Also, I’m going to be offering this
recipe on my website for purchase if you
would like, so I will give you the links
for that. I replaced all of the water in
the recipe with goat’s milk I use raw
goat’s milk and goats milk has to be
frozen to add it to the why because
it’ll scorch otherwise. Okay let’s get
started. Make sure that you are all
geared up for safety and measure the
frozen goat’s milk and the sodium
hydroxide. If you have never made cold
process soap before milk soap isn’t
really in the soap you want to start
with because of the heating up that’s
involved because of the sugars, so you
can scorch the milk pretty easily, so I
would recommend if you start with
something, start with a simple recipe
that uses water as the liquid. Once
you’re finished measuring your sodium
hydroxide, add a little bit of that to
your frozen goat’s milk. The goal here is
to add the sodium hydroxide gradually so
that the temperature stays relatively
low.
And to help keep your temperature low
I’m going to show you how to make an ice
bath. Just set your pitcher in a bowl
that’s a little bit larger and
surrounded by ice cubes. And then pour
enough water in there to make it barely
flow or not float at all. Be careful that
it doesn’t float too much or it’ll be
unstable. Next, just keep gradually adding
a little sodium hydroxide and stir very
well in between and then we’re gonna
give it a little break. And while we’re
gradually adding the sodium hydroxide I
want to talk a little bit about the
color of the goat’s milk. It’s going to
turn a little bit of a yellow color when
it’s starting to scorch, and it usually
gives off kind of an ammonia smell. Now
there’s nothing wrong with this. You can
totally use it but for this recipe since
I’m not adding any color I wanted to
keep it as light as possible. To give you
an idea of an acceptable shade of yellow
that’s totally fine, I’m going to show
you this picture. Okay in this photo I’m
straining the goat milk I wouldn’t get
it any darker than this, but this yellow
is totally acceptable.
At this point I add a little more, but
then once I stir this you can see that
the ice cubes are almost melted, so this
is a good time to give it a little break
and to let it cool down again. I try to
keep the temperature below 70 degrees
Fahrenheit or 21 degrees Celsius. Next,
cover the sodium hydroxide and set it
aside. Next, I’m going to measure my
sodium lactate and I just add it to the
batch right away because it’s already
cool. After you get the sodium lactate
stirred in, just set that aside with
your sodium hydroxide. Next, measure the
palm kernel flakes and these have a
melting point of 102 degrees Fahrenheit
and 78 degrees Celsius so measure these
first and get them melted and then add
the coconut oil and the lard. Lard is a
fairly balanced oil. What I like about it
is it has about the same amount of
palmitic and stearic acid as it has
oleic acid. So if the palmitic and
stearic acid cause it to be a hard bar
and it’s a very stable bar it’s not a
drying bar. And the oleic acid in it
makes it moisturizing. So this is a really
nice oil and lard also slows down
acceleration. And this recipe is a very
slow-moving recipe. Next, microwave those
if necessary and then we’ll add a little
more sodium hydroxide to our goat milk.
When it’s mixed in completely, set it
aside again, and start to measure your
liquid oils, starting with your avocado
oil, then your castor oil, and then your
olive oil. The reason I start with the
avocado oil is because it’s a thinner
oil, and if I go over I can easily put
that back because I haven’t measured
anything else in there. Then the castor
oil is a thick oil, so it’s pretty easy
to get that right on and not go over, and
then the last oil is just the olive oil
in that one is easy just to top off with
a squeeze bottle.
I microwaved these oils until they’re
almost melted and then I just stir the
rest of the way and I add my cocoa
butter.
These are cocoa butter pastilles, and they
are from Bramble Berry. I like working with
them, but you can use any kind of cocoa
butter with this. If you don’t want it to
have a chocolate smell make sure you use
the deodorize kind. At this point, add
some more sodium hydroxide and try to
keep your temperatures below 70 degrees
Fahrenheit or 21 degrees Celsius.
Next, I stir in my cocoa butter and if it
needs a little more microwaving I
microwave it until it’s barely melted.
After that, just add the remaining amount
of sodium hydroxide and set aside.

Now it’s time to add the liquid oils to
the melted hard oils. Make sure you
pour it on the side of the pitcher just
so you don’t introduce a bunch of air
bubbles. Stir your oils until there are
no streaks and if there are still streaks
after you stir just microwave them to
make them warm enough to have no streaks.
Now strain your lye solution into your
oil solution, and this is going to be a
little more difficult than it is when
you’re using water, but it’s pretty
important because you can’t tell if
there are any pieces of lye that didn’t
get dissolved. You’re using a colder
temperature now, so it’s not necessarily
going to dissolve as easily as it when
it’s warmer. I use the back of a spoon or
I found that if you have a mortar and
pestle, the pestle works excellent to get
all of that goat milk through there.
There’s another reason I strain my lye
solution, but I’m going to speak to you
about that when I’m cutting my soap.
Next, make sure you have your mold handy
and stick blend until a medium trace is
reached. And with this recipe, it actually
took quite a while to get to medium
trace it’s a very slow tracing recipe.
Goat milk is wonderful in soap and to
think of it as the difference between
water and milk. Milk is so much more
creamy. Also, the lactic acid in it helps
to remove the dead skin cells from your
top layer of skin and it reveals the
smoother skin underneath. And it’s full
of vitamins, there’s vitamin’s A and a few
different kind of B vitamins and C and D
and E also. The lather is a very
luxurious it’s really smooth and creamy
it’s wonderful. I would say that I only
got this to light trace when I poured it
and that is because this recipe was just
moving so slowly, so if you want to use
this recipe for swirls, it would be a
great recipe for swirls. Okay, now that
I’ve poured my batter I just cover it
and I use a Plexiglas sheet to cover it
so I can see what’s going on under there
without disturbing it. And then I wrap a
towel around it and then I put a towel
over the top. And I do keep an eye on it
a little bit to make sure it’s not
overheating but usually, that’s just fine
and there, and one reason why is that I
did a big water discount I only use 20%
water as a percentage of oils. When you
use less water like that it is harder
for it to overheat.
Remember, less water is harder to
overheat, and more water is easier to
overheat. Okay, this is the next day, and I
love how their soap came out. Before I
cut my loaf into bars, I bevel the long
edges first just to make it easier. And
then I mark my bars. And I’m marking the
in this case, every inch but I put it on
a slant, so I can get them equal if that
doesn’t make sense to you I have a video
on that so you can click on the “i” in the
upper right corner and find that video.
The rest of this is pretty
self-explanatory.
The first thing I want to talk to you
about is the white spots that sometimes
form and milk soaps. Sometimes the white spots can be stearic spots.
But most of the time, when
you’re troubleshooting it I feel like
they get misdiagnosed as steric spots.
A lot of times they don’t form right
away they form as the bar is curing.
check out the bar above. This soap I made
a long time ago when I still kept some
bars because I never did sell it, but
originally I thought it might be a lye
or something like that but I did the
zap test and there’s no zap when you
touch your tongue to it and also I just
did it again on my soap that I have, so I
know it wasn’t lye heavy or anything
like. That but this was a buttermilk soap. The only
oils used were olive oil and coconut oil.
And olive oil and coconut oil don’t have
much stearic acid or palmitic acid to
make those spots. But when I was making
this into soap it already had these
little hard round things as I was
introducing it to the oils. So you can
imagine that buttermilk has a lot of fat
in it. Those little fat molecules or
whatever they are, I’m not a scientist,
okay, so this is just the way I
understand it. I read it somewhere, I
could not find it, but I read that, when
these little fat particles react with a
lye they turn to soap early, and then a
little more lye is absorbed into them.
So when you make your soap and it starts
to cure, then that lye starts to go away
and absorb into the rest of the batter,
so it leaves a little white spot. So this
is why earlier I said I strain my lye
solution. And that doesn’t necessarily
get those particles out, but it helps
just smash them and make them a little
smaller, so if it doesn’t get rid of them
altogether, it would just make them a
lot less noticeable. And also, stick
blending helps. If any of you that have a
science background can explain that a
little better,
just please write it in the comments
below, and I would appreciate that.
Some people don’t gel their soap. And they get a more white soap. But I have never
had much luck in getting my soap to not
partially gel when I put it in the
refrigerator, so I always just go ahead
and force gel on my soap. In this case
though all that needs to be done is to
just cover the soap. Thank you all for
giving me feedback in the last video, I
was asking about
you’d be interested in me doing recipes
and offering them on my website for sale
and, I’m going to do this but it will be
a gradual thing, so stay tuned. And if
you’re interested in getting on a list
for me to let you know when I have a new
recipe, just go to my facebook page and
send me a message, and give me your email
address, and let me know that you’re
interested in being on the list for when
the recipes come out. And this recipe
should already be listed there so don’t
forget to go to my website and check it
out. If you’re interested I have a
soap-making Facebook group. It’s a great
place to learn from other people and you
can ask questions, also help other people
if you happen to know the answer, and
just encourage others. You can show your
soap. There’s just a few questions you
have to answer at the beginning because,
I want to know that you have read the
rules. So just answer the questions and
if you’ve asked to join the group and
haven’t been accepted, just make sure you
go back and answer those questions. To
find the group just search Tree Marie
Soapworks on Facebook and just make
sure you’re finding the group and not my
business page. I will also leave a link
below. If you appreciate my videos, please
just give me a thumbs up, and a comment,
and also if you’re new to my channel and
you haven’t subscribed, please subscribe,
and hit the bell for notifications so
that you’ll be notified when I post my
next video. Thank you to those of you who
have checked out my website and also the
ones that have placed orders. I really
appreciate it! Thank you so much for
joining me today and thank you for
sticking with me until the end, and I
appreciate you and have a great day! 🙂

65 thoughts on “How to Make All-Natural Goat Milk Cold Process Soap (Technique Video #24)

  • I really like you lady. Your info, your approach, your humility and you obvious vast knowledge comes thru (I think your voice is exceeding convincing too! you sound like an introvert thinker!). consider me your fan. I've seen a handful of your videos and you are simply fantastic. thank you so much for sharing such deep insight. Very generous.

  • I went to buy the recipe but it is charging $7.90 for shipping a bar. I thought it was just the recipe. Does it come with a bar?

  • The vegan alternative would be some kind of nut milk soap like almond milk etc. I prefer to use powdered milk over fresh and I mix that with warmed Aloe Vera juice which makes it nice and creamy. I then mix that to my oils before introducing my lye solution made with more Aloe Vera juice. I don't get milk spots made from mixing lye to fresh milk. I really don't like when that happens, just my preference! Goat's milk soap is so under rated having so many benefits especially for troubled skin!! 💞

  • Funny, I do goat milk soaps frequently and did my unscented one this morning as well, great minds. As for the white spots,I only have a limited science background, but over 50 years of soaping experience. You hit the nail on the head, higher fat content liquids (like milks) can begin to saponify early, especially if lye/milk is allowed to sit for an extended amount of time, I personally appreciate the spots, it helps identify it as homemade and honest, and I like that. Thanks so much for sharing.

  • Beautiful soap, Teri! I really enjoy your videos and your FB group. They've both been very helpful for a new soaper like me. Thank you!

  • Great timing I just was thinking I am ready to do a goats milk soap so thank you very much. Beautiful looking soap and I love your video's and direction.

  • Hi Teri. Could you share where you get lard from (what store/the container ) and also Tallow? I know you didn’t use it in this video but I’m curious as to where to get it from. (Seen it in Walmart but not sure if it’s ok to use ((the tallow))..
    I wish I could get goats milk but I haven’t found any local . Love your video.

  • Another great video, thanks Teri. I haven’t got that much experience with cold process soap yet but this is definitely a recipe I’d been keen to try in the future, I love goats milk soap.

  • Hi Teri! Thanks for this video. I’ve asked about having milk in the soap in your Facebook page and this is very helpful. As you suggested, I still have to make the basic soap (no milk) as soon as all ingredients arrive. But at some point, I’m going to try this. I’m excited. Thanks again for sharing!

  • Unscented goat milk was my very first cold process soap that I made, and is one that I regularly repeat as it is definitely a favorite of my family. Probably a very similar recipe to yours, other than I use shea instead of coco butter, but I will probably do a coco butter sub soon just to try it that way….maybe even tomorrow now that I am feeling inspired! 🙂

  • I love watching your videos. Always beautiful soap with excellent directions and rationales for what you do. I also love your recipes and purchased this one a few minutes ago.

  • I use an ice bath, but I add a liitle salt to keep it colder. It takes about a half hour to make my lye solution, but the goat milk stays a creamy color so it is worth the time and effort. I make both a scented and unscented GMS, but I prefer it to be uncolored. I make mine with Olive, Coconut, Palm and Caster Oils, and Shea Butter and it’s slow to trace.

  • I've been making soap for 25 years, tried goat milk soap once, and because it turned orange and stunk, I never tried it again. Thank you for demystifying how to make this successfully!

  • You do an excellent job of keeping the carmelization at bay. Mine is always darker – I freeze my milk, but don't cool it in an ice bath as I'm mixing in the lye, and I can now see how that really makes a difference.

  • I clicked on your link for the recipe and decided to browse your gallery and… WOW! It's like mini works of art. You are AMAZING, and your soaps are so beautiful!!!

  • There is something very beautiful about a plain bar of soap, and yours are definitely very beautiful. Another lovely video.

  • Très beau savon en toute simplicité 😍 je fais aussi pareil pour les savons aux lait mais je les mets systématiquement au frais pendant au moins 12h afin d'éviter la phase de gel et donc au lait de chauffer 😉 merci pour tous ces magnifiques partages 😘

  • Thank you so much for doing a goat milk soap video! That was one of my suggestions from your last video so I was super stoked when I saw you uploaded this on your site. Thank you so much. 😊

  • Absolutely loved this video! I have been wanting to make goat’s milk soap, knew it scorched if not iced etc, but didn’t know the amount of time and the breaks in between that it took. This video is very clear and precise. Thank you! Your soap look so creamy and silky! 😍

  • Bought your Goats Milk recipe, will make it tomorrow. Thank you!! Love all your soap designs, your so talented!! "God really gives us Beautiful and Wonderful Gifts" I See one of your gifts truly in your soap making!! Bless you

  • I'm late I'm so sorry! Damn you, Youtube, and your cruddy alerts system. Especially after I binge-rewatched all the previous videos.

    I hope you don't mind if I offer a tip (which my mum taught me when I was first studying chemistry – she's an industrial chemist too). If you add a tablespoon or so of salt to the water bath with the ice and water, it will actually make it even colder – the temperature will drop below the freezing point of fresh water, and so it will keep your lye even cooler. I have to admit, I may have done a small happy dance watching you being so careful and slow about adding the lye to the milk – I know that the scorching usually is okay after saponification, especially if you're colouring and whatnot… but I always wondered why more people don't take their time and slowly add it while in an ice bath. So I have to admit, it made my day to see you treating your milk with so much TLC.

    I have a question to ask about goat milk – does it still smell goaty in the milk? Perhaps it's just my autism, but I can't actually bear goat milk or goat cheese, because it tastes and smells like wet goat. And I'd want to make sure that goaty smell isn't present before I put it into soap (and then I could swap it out for another kind of milk of course). But I just wonder if that "goatiness" still comes through at the end.

    I also love the idea of using plexiglass as a lid, so that you can keep it covered all the time but still keep an eye for problems. Another handy hint!

    As for the white spots – I'm obviously not an expert soap-maker but my understanding from a scientific point of view would be that you're right, they're basically little miniature soap balls or pellets forming when you add the lye. Milk is obviously a suspension of fats/oils in water (which is why the cream sometimes rises to the top on milk as it stands, and why you can shake the devil out of it to make butter). Because you're adding the lye directly to a small volume of milk, then there's a LOT more lye to work on a relatively tiny amount of fat and so the process of saponification starts right away. This is effectively going to cause create little blobs of "different" soap with an entirely different fatty acid ratio (which probably explains the colour as much as anything) which effectively end up as embeds in the rest of your batter.

    I must admit, I'm not sure that I'd do a zap test with my tongue. If it IS actually lye heavy, that could be incredibly risky, and it's going to be more accurate to use pH indicator or litmus paper. Then it would just need a tiny dab of water on the spot and then touching it to the indicator strip – and then compare it with the result from a non-spot area to double-check. If you get one of the better papers, it will show you the difference between "good" soap which has a pH around 7-10 (7 is neutral, like distilled water) and pure lye which has a pH of 14. Hydrion pH Papers look to be pretty good on Amazon.com (you want one that has a nice, clear colour definition on the 8+ range, really, and while there are some much more sensitive ones, they require bigger samples as they use four pads on a single test strip, so this paper is probably the most accurate if you'd want to give it a go (and save your tongue!).

  • Dear Teri, I am speechless, which is uncommon for me. LOL As always, your presentation was flawless. You are smart, articulate and thorough in your explanations. That is a gift, as many people find it difficult to articulate what they know to others. I am speechless, because I had gotten so wound up as I looked forward to your new video release. I so enjoy watching an artist at work. You are indeed an artist. But you held back a little this time. However, I always learn something new that I can add to my knowledge whenever I watch one of your videos. Today I learned about "white spots" and how to keep my lye solution from getting too hot. Beneath that calm "school teacher" demeanor, I wonder if you have an adventurous, risk taking side. A few videos back you made disc shaped bars of soap that had psychedelic colors. That was cool and wild!!! So I know "you got flava". I hope to see more of your coolness and artistic 'flava' in your next video. May God bless you and prosper you in all of your endeavors. Victor

  • Thank you for sharing ❤️ Great video. I have been a goat milk soap maker, for about three and a half years. I love your explanation of the process and technic for adding the milk/ lye solution to oils. Keep inspiring. Blessings.

  • I will buy anything from you. Best soapmaker ever! Thank you for the videos, your tips and now your recipes! Make an ebook!

  • Beautiful Goat Milk Soap and great job explaining everything. I make strickly goat milk soap since I raise dairy goats and many other soap makers find it odd that I gel my soap. It's nice to know I'm not alone in the gelling department!

  • I learned so much (which doesn't surprise me as I always learn from and love your tutorials). Thank you for the gift of them. You inspire me and I want to thank you for doing this soap. I haven't made a plain bar yet but this simplicity is beautiful in so many ways. God bless!

  • 🧼 Find the recipe here💕 https://www.treemariesoapworks.com/product-category/recipes/
    Make sure you understand LYE SAFETY before making soap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR6ttCSrLJI

  • As a 20 year goat's milk soap maker, I am all too familiar with those white spots. LOL!!! I have had a terrible epidemic of them as of late however. Worse than I have ever had and I am wondering about using store bought goat's milk vs. raw. I used to have my own small herd of Nigerian dwarf goats and always used their milk. But then I became chronically ill and had to let my herd die off and stop soap making. Now I am feeling somewhat better and have started soaping again, but had to purchase goat's milk from Sprouts. I made about 6 batches of soap in Nov.and they all developed white, hard crusty spots all over the soap. I am wondering if there is something going on because the milk has been pasteurized? I never experienced this before. Also, my workshop is now an uninsulated, unheated shed since I had to close my business. Could the cold be affecting them while they cure? I have never gelled my soaps because they would always over heat or do a partial gel, so I just keep them cold. Perhaps the unheated shed is too cold. i do soap cool at around 70 to 75 degrees.

    I have to admit I am a bid baffled by this. I will eventually insulate and add heat to my shed, but it will take time. I am seriously considering using powdered goat's milk or switching to coconut cream or just distilled water instead. Sprouts is a 50 mile round trip for me so I am trying to find a local source for raw goats milk, but so far, no luck. Thanks for any insight you might have.

  • I make predominantly goat milk soap- not super experienced, as I’m less than a year, but anyway- I always thought it made sense as milk has fat, and the lye saponifies fat… so that’s what I always assumed.

  • Good vid. You deserve more subscribers! Check out followsm . c o m, a lot of channels are using it to promote their videos!

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